THE ILLUSTRATED TUTORIAL No. 9
WHEN SHADE WAS BORN
I love a bright lip for Spring, some lipstick color photos I like that have been lingering on my desktop. From Léa Seydoux's pink lip to the pretty Chanel color at Jil Sander Fall 2012. Like I really need more lipstick, with some twenty or so tubes on my makeup table. At Andrew's last photo shoot lovely and talented makeup artist Joanna Lily Wong (who coincidentally was doing the makeup in the pictures I took at the Karen Walker show) whipped up a beautiful shade of velvety dark red lipstick by mixing together three different colors. Pat McGrath swears by mixing colors too:
“Everyone should have four lipsticks they love and just mix them—it’s like having 400 lipsticks.”
Most of the lipstick Pat McGrath uses on the runway are custom mixed, sometimes she uses concealer or foundation to change color on a lip completely. I still love this salmon pink she made for Nina Ricci and deep red for Balenciaga. Joanna shared with me some of her tricks on mixing a matte lip color...
"I'm so particular about colors it is difficult to find a pencil or a matte lip color that's exactly what I'm looking for. With creamy or sheer lipstick it's easier to mix colors because there's more moisture in the formula. Matte lipsticks usually come in less color choices and are drier so they don't mix as well- that's why lip paints are great. They come out liquid so you can mix, but then they dry matte. I squeeze the base color on the back of my hand, then mix in another shade with a brush to richen the color. Sometimes I'll want a cooler or warmer tone so I add a touch of another color. I apply with a concealer brush- not a lipstick brush- because I can cover more of the lip in one swipe and it's best to work quickly before it dries."
I don't have any lip paints but I've been mixing up new colors using my current lipsticks and Joanna's advice, some of my favorite lipcolors right now: